At Chef Ambar Rode’s latest restaurant in Pune, there’s no gimmick. There’s some seriously impressive French and Italian dishes that warrant all the good words. Looking for a European cuisine in Pune? Kindly read till the end.
The walk to Nanna’s Negroni in Pune reminded me of Salerno – of that unexpected uphill climb where tucked at the very end of a quiet slope, I stumbled upon what turned out to be the best meal I had in Europe. There’s something oddly reassuring about these hidden-away places, as if the effort to reach them is part of the ritual.
I am seated across from a wall that’s impossible to ignore. A zebra, as calm as a monk, is holding a cobra pose – as in, the yoga asana. It’s the kind of detail that makes you pause and smile. Chef Amber Rode recalls, “The zebra artwork which often intrigues guests is a print I found in a small market in Ely, UK. I had been holding onto it waiting for the right space, and Nanna’s turned out to be the perfect home for it.”
The second thing that grabs me is the menu. It doesn’t ease you in, it announces itself. A bold, hand-painted hand hoisting a Negroni like a torch. It’s dramatic and it’s perfect. There’s a 200 sq ft postcard wall that serves as visual diary of places, people, and memories, and pretty much transported me back to the sun-drenched piazzas.
The Food
Chef Ambar Rode’s culinary journey began in his mother’s kitchen, where he learned the basics of cooking. His love for food took him to Le Cordon Bleu, where he mastered French techniques that reflect in his other Pune ventures—Le Petit Amour, Flamingo and the now-shut-but-fondly-remembered Brasserie Cinq. At Nanna’s Negroni, Chef Ambar brings together years of experience and experimentation to serve what can best be described as European comfort food with heart.
I began with a deceptively simple plate of lightly toasted bread and house butters. It looked unassuming, but each bite was comforting and indulgent in the best way. As we chatted over drinks (more on that later), the 5 Mushroom Croquettes arrived—crisp on the outside, with earthy mushroom flavours in every bite. The Tomato & Stracciatella Caprese followed, and before I knew it, I had polished off the entire plate, wiping up the last bits of pesto and cheese. The Negroni-Spice Kingfish Crudo was a summer dream with silky fish that melts in your mouth, with just the right kick from the Negroni marinade. We skipped the pasta this time, but the Braised Pork Pappardelle with slow-pulled pork in sage broth sounded tempting. We did try the Margherita Pizza, which passed the test—simple, classic and everything a good pizza should be. What caught my eye was the Confit Duck Leg, a nod to Brasserie Cinq. Slow-cooked and paired with braised lentils, dauphinoise potatoes, roasted peach, and celeriac puree, it’s the kind of dish that makes you want to slow down and savour every bite.
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Next I marched on to the toast and toppings. First up, is the Madeira chicken liver brioche. The cocoa tulle added an oddly charming whisper of sweetness, while the rhubarb and the pistachio threw in crunch and tartness. Just as I finished my third dish, I noticed Damini Halli, co-founder of the restaurant, walk over to clear my plate – a rare striking sight. It’s not everyday you see a restaurant owner so hands-on and genuinely invested in the guest experience, right? When I gently protest and tell her it’s not necessary, she smiles and says, “No job is ever too small. Whether it’s taking orders or clearing tables. When you build something from the ground up, you know it’s better than anyone else, and the best way to bring that vision to life is by being present.
For dessert, we tried the Sangria Pear Crumble, which as the name suggests is a boozy pear with hazelnut crumble and focaccia gelato. But the star of the night was the Olive Oil Lemon Cake, soaked in limoncello syrup and topped with ricotta, vanilla mousse and pistachios.
The Cocktails
Considering the weather, I kicked things off with a cocktail that’s basically summer in a glass. Think tequila doing a gentle salsa with honey water, cucumber, jalapeno, and coriander. It’s been ages since I had a picante that wasn’t confused about its own identity. This one is a well-made picante. The kind that makes you go quiet mid-sip and just nod at your own glass in mutual respect.
Next, I tried Hello Stranger – vodka, lavender, blueberry and honey water garnished with blueberry dust. Soft, refreshing and a little flirty. But then… Beach Day walked in and in no time, everything else on the table became supporting characters. The description promised, “It was smooth, rich and cherished like footprints in the sand,” and honestly? It delivered hard. Gin, Martini, pineapple, strawberry, and truffle oil all stirred into a sunkissed dream and served with parmesan cheese and olives. I took one sip and immediately committed to a second round. By the third sip, I had mentally RSVP’d to come back. By the last sip, I was already plotting my next trip from Mumbai to Pune, because this isn’t just a cocktail, it’s perhaps the best drink I have had in a long time. And let’s be honest, when a drink makes you willing to endure Mumbai-Pune traffic twice, you know it’s not just good – it’s something!
Should you Visit?
Definitely, enter this peaceful haven of 2,600 square feet, where every element is intended to take you to Europe. Vertical tufting and dark green leather booths beckon you to stay, and polished wooden tables with marble tops offer a subtle elegance. A golden glow reminiscent of a late afternoon in a charming Italian café is cast by warm, ambient lighting, while chairs with cane backs pay homage to traditional European design.
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